Everything in this zone is tested by myself and it worked well for me, but do it at your own risk.
I wonīt take any responsibility for anything that could go wrong while you are following my tips.
But if you are a handy person...feel welcome, I think you can find some helpful hintīs here.
As soon as I grab som new ideas I will add it here.

"Itīs great to be helpful"

The reason I use different fontcolor is, thatīs an easy way to seperate and find each section.

Optimize your flipperīs.

My most important tips.

Whatīs more important than a proper flipper-angle?
Untighten the screws to the flipper and press it up/down ward until itīs aligned with the inlaneplate.
Use a straight "something" and align as shown in the picture.
Skip the playfields holes, and follow this procedure instead.
If you let the flipper go down a little more, it will result in easiers side hits (e.g:loops).
But then you lose power to the mid and often the ramps.
Try to stick to the right angle for best performance.

If you let the ball roll down the inlane and over the flipper, it should follow the red line.
If it bounce against the flipper like the green line, you have to adjust it.
Itīs difficult to adjust, but try to loosen the screws for the "inlane-plastic-metal" and bend it slightly forwards/backwards until the ball rolls smoth over to the flipper.
Then tighten the srews again.
Yo cant force it to much...about half mm should be enough.

Twilight Zone
How to prevent the "slotmachine-target" to bend backwards.

If you own a TZ I think you recognize this picture.
This yellow standuptarget will bend backwards after a few hits, and make the hole harder to hit (yes thatīs true), and the target itself needs a direct hit to react.
This is a piece of a cake to fix!

Get yourswelf a 1,5mm steel-plate and use a jig-saw.
form the plate as shown below.
Bend it, and drill the holes as shown in the picture.
Make sure the holes is placed closed to the edges, it makes it easier to screw it tight to the wood.

As always when you work under the playfield:
Pictures: before and after.
First you have to remove the two "standup-targets"
Put the plate tight to the wood and mark for the holes to drill.
Mount the plate and put the two standups back. Thats it!

whoops..whatīs this?..no problem! the targets will fit in perfectly. As a bonus you get these two targets covered as well. The back of each target is in metal, but they are not connected to anything so itīs OK. And you can see the metaledge that prevents the "slot target" to bend.

I did this one in actual scale, but then i realized that it depends on the software you use. So I dont think you can print this out, but you have all the information you need.

Pinballs in general
How to cover your "plastics" before they break.

This is such a bad picture but i think you get the point. Simply remove the plastic you want to cover, and put it on top of a sheet metal. Cut along the edges and drill for the holes. Then you have to use a jigsaw to cut off the inside-part. I use 0.5 mm sheet, but you can have it up to at least 1 mm if it is an exposed position plastic. Put some glue on the sheet and then itīs new forever!
This picture shows the "slotmachine" plastic from a TZ-pin.

Twilight Zone
How to get the "powerball" shining white.

I think this polish is known by all goldsmith around. If you plan to "fix" your powerball, then chose a goldsmith with their own workshop. Big companies dont usually have the ability to rapair juwelery, just sell them. Only use "soft polishing", dont ever use the rugh ones. The ball might get polished over and over without any harm.

This ball is polished once, but it was gray as a steel-ball before the first treatment. As a goldsmith I know that itīs is easy to polish it, just as easy as anything else. The first time I did it I was "scared do death", who knows whats under the surface? But soon I realised that it seemed to be very solid. My "powerball" is still white since months, keep in mind that TZ is my latest pin, so I have been playing a lot.

Not a very good or interesting picture, but this is the final cleaning. This is a bath with heat and vibration that shakes the "dirt" off.
Itīs called a "ultrasonic bath".
This is not nessesary but it prevent any dirt from the ball to get in to the playfield. All goldsmiths have this, itīs the final part.

It last for long, and gives TZ a whole new dimension. In profession I would take 10 USD, but as an pin-enthusiast I would help you for free!


This is a picture of Jeffīs replacement "powerballs".
Bob Antelman sell these now.
Send him a mail if you want to Buy a new replacement "powerball".

Twilight Zone
A more 3-D feeling to your TZ piano.

This piano was delivered in a "happy meal" at Mc Donaldīs.
They might be hard to get, but if you advertise for one you might get one for a few buckīs
Lotīs of kids might have them under their beds or...
Itīs a very nice effect!
Good luck

Twilight Zone
How to get your gumballmachine to look like a real gumballmachine!

These gumballs are made of plastic, and they fit perfect in the machine.
They are specially made for the TZ-gumballmachine.
You donīt even have to remove the gumballmachine, just unscrew the topcover.
I simply add the money in a envelope and send it to Mike Nichols.
Itīs only 10 USD for each bag that contains 60 gumballs.
Go to Mikeīs website for more information!

Indiana Jones
How to prevent the ball from bounce out from the mode-hole.

Hitting this hole, is one of the most important shots in the game.
If you donīt adjust the angle/curve of this plate it will bounce to many ballīs out again! I hope the pictures is good enough.
To reach the plate, you first have to remove POA.

How to make Twilight Zoneīs clock to work smooth without the "crappy" noise.

When the clock is off the machine, start to remove the front transparent plastic
(If itīs there, I dont have it on my clock, coz of the heat).
Make sure the hour/minute hand are aligned to 12á clock.
If not, simply force the minute-hand until itīs in the right possition.
Carefully remove the lock washer by the help of a tong and remove the hands.

Turn the clock around and remove the 4 screws that holds the backpiece.
Carefully remove the backpiece that holds the motor and the gear-wheels and put it aside.
One important thing is to put a mark on the big black "hour-wheel" so you can put it back the right way again.
The arrow on this picture shows the upper part of the clocks cabinett, and thatīs now the 12 position, mark the wheel "12" with a pen.
(I think the scheme in the manual shows the wheel 180 degree wrong!)

Remove the gear-wheels from the backpiece.
4 of the wheels are locked by a lockwasher, and one is fixed with a pin on the minute-shaft that goes through the clock.
Now put your finger on the shaftīs top and feel if they are fixed or not.
They should be absolutely fixed, otherwise they will cause the vibrations thet makes the clock sound and works bad.
This is the difference between a smooth or a rattle clock!
It was only one shaft properly fixed on my clock.
As a watchmaker I KNOW this is important.

The loose ones needs to be glued, HEY!...Donīt be afraid...Itīs easy!
Just a little drop on the shaftīs backside is needed.
Pull the shafts about 5mm from the backpiece.
Put some glue on the shaft and press it back again, all the way back until the lock-washer prevent it to go any further.
A good glue is the quick ones, but use it carefully coz it often harden in less than 15 sekīs.
Only glue one in a time.
After a few minutes itīs done.

Next step is to put some oil on the shafts where the gear-wheel is positioned.
This must be the first time I recommend to use oil or greace in a pinmachine, but this "toy" is actually working like an ordinary watch, so it needs it.
You can use greace or oil, some pinenthusiasts recommend some kind of silicone grease but I prefer oil.
The amount of oil is so small, so theres no worries about if it shoul messes anything up.
Use a volatile oil, like the oil to a sewing-machine and apply with the help of a nail.
Put it only the few mmīs up the shaft where the weels are positioned

assemble the clock and enjoy the flow and the smooth sound.

Indiana Jones
How to make "the lost backpanel-jackpot light".

I did order and I pay in cash for a repro-one from a guy in Germany in april but I havenīt seen it yet, so I decided to build my own without any circuit-board.
This is easy and it gives your IJ-pin a thrilling effect!
The collected treasures stay lit, and the next treasure is flashing while the uncollected ones are dark.

First you have to remove the backbox panel. Disconnect the speakers and the Dot matrix connectors. The front plastic film is easy to remove, if you just take it easy. Most of the adhesive mass stays on the plastic film. Itīs easier to handle if you put the plastic-sheet on a greaseproof paper.

Now put a piece of greaseproof paper on top, and use a pen to mark the lines around the "treasures". Itīs not necessary to do this, but I wanted the whole thing to glow. You can simply follow the original curve, as you find at Mikeīs excellent Indiana Jones official site.
I made a few marks on the board and the paper, then I turned the board and the paper upside-down. I used carbon paper to re-write it on the backside.

First I removed the Dot Matrix display. Itīs screwed onto the board by four nutīs. Carefully lift it of from the board, It might be hard to get off, because it has probably been there for a few years. Take it easy here! Simply drill a few holes , so you can put the jigsaw in the board. Follow the lines..and the laborious part is done. Afterwards I realized that it's not all that important to get the holes exactly.

Click here for bigger pictures and the final connection.

If you like to order for a new board you can visit Steve Trischettaīs site.

For most pinball-machines
How to fix a broken "ramp entrance".

The entrance to the rampīs often get lots of hard hits.
strange they can take that much hits before they break!
Once itīs break you must fix it in time before it needs to be replaced by a new one (thatīs hard and expensive to get).
My perfect "mint" STTNG had this middle ramp broken (almost standard on this machine).
If there are "cracks" in the plastic, then carefully glue them together again.
Now put the ramp back and attach it to the playfield.

Cut a piece of paper to the shape of the ramps angle and the "rubberpin" in front of it.
Make sure that at least 1mm free space is left between the paper and the plastic.
Use a pen and mark along the edges and imagine the rampīs line down to the "rubberpinīs" top.

A "sheet-metal (tinplate, plate) worker" helped me to get this 1mm "stainless steel profile" the size might vary from different rampīs.

Now use the paper to mark along the edges on the plate.
Make sure not to "mirror" the paper...think!
Use a jigsaw to cut the right shape.
Donīt forget to save a little piece in the front to drill a hole and fix to the "rubber-pins" top screw.

Tightīn the plate to the "rubber-pin" and make sure it is fixed behind the "rubber-pin".
Now drill a hole through the upper part plate/plastic, use the original screw to fix it.
This picture doesīnt include that part (yet).
OK...this might take some time but itīs definitive worth it!
The machine is worthless without a working ramp.
A new one is very expensive...if you can get one??.

Visit Bob Ellingsonīs website for much more information!

The Shadow.

This is a picture of The Shadows battlefield popper-hole.
Get yourself a wire of stainless steel and curve it to the shape like the one on this picture.
When the ball pass it, the gate goes down and prevent the ball from bouncing back on the playfield.
Make sure the gate is small enough to let the popper activates without touching it.


Download my Scorecards, and print it out.

Windows wallpaper
Two backgrounds that I have created in Bryce.

Click on the image you want, and the full image loads (800*600).
Use the right mousebutton and chose "save image".
For the best quality I saved them un-compressed.

Lost In The Ocean.
Five Great Sphereīs.

Do you have any other ideas about pinball locations in this surrealistic world?

Describe them, mail me and I´ll do my best.

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